White Sturgeon-Eco Friendly Source in California
Endangered Prehistoric Bottom-dwelling Fish Raised on Organic Farm
Mar 18, 2009
The wild Pacific white sturgeon, Acipenser transmontanus, is a cold water, bottom-dwelling easily recognizable fish with five rows of bony plates (scutes) that run from its gills to its tail. They spawn in the large rivers of the Pacific Northwest and California in the spring and summer months and remain in fresh water while young.
The Bad News
Being the largest freshwater fish in North America, living for more than 100 years with slow growth, and delayed maturation has its drawbacks. Many wild sturgeon runs in the Pacific Northwest and California are on the endangered species list as a result of overfishing, loss of habitat, pollution, and restricted access to spawning areas because of dams.
The Good News
White sturgeon-is now produced by a handful of fish farmers in freshwater, closed-system tanks that release minimal effluent into surrounding waterways. Even though a majority of aquaculture actually promote ecological destruction and further protein loss, there's an exception to every rule. One California company, CleanFish located in Wilton, California, raises sturgeon in an ecological and economically sustainable environment. They use a closed tank system with Organic Food Production principles - meaning no antibiotics, growth hormones, pesticides or fertilizers are used. Farmed sturgeon are rated "Best Choice" by the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch Guide and Environmental Defense's Seafood Selector.
The Recipe
White sturgeon has a firm flesh with a rich, earthy flavor. A perfect fish to serve with a slightly aggressive spicy and citrus flavored eggplant.
For the Spicy Eggplant
- 2 large globe eggplants, peeled and cut into 1-inch by 1-inch by 2-inch strips
- kosher salt
- 1/3 cup vegetable oil
- 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, finely chopped
- 1 teaspoon garlic, finely chopped
- 1 small hot red chili, seeds removed and finely chopped
- 2 teaspoons chili oil or to taste
- 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
- ¼ cup rice wine vinegar
- 2 tablespoons orange juice
- ¼ cup vegetable stock or water
- ¼ cup soy sauce
For the Sturgeon
- 4, 5-ounce white sturgeon fillets, skin off
- kosher salt and white pepper, to taste
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 2 tablespoons butter
To Prepare the Spicy Eggplant: Place eggplant in a large colander placed over a large bowl. Sprinkle salt over eggplant. Allow eggplant to sit and release its moisture for 45 minutes to an hour.
Wash salt off of the eggplant and pat dry with a towel. Place a large sauté pan or wok over high heat. Add vegetable oil. When oil is hot, add eggplant and sauté until caramelized on the outside. Add the ginger, garlic and chili and cook 1 minute until aromatics are just starting to turn golden brown. Add chili oil. Quickly add sugar, vinegar, orange juice, vegetable stock or water and soy sauce. Bring to a boil. Cook until the eggplant is soft and the liquid is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
To Prepare the Sturgeon: Place a sauté pan, large enough to hold all of the fish, over medium heat. Season the sturgeon with salt and pepper. Add the oil and butter to the hot pan. When butter begins to foam slip the fish into the pan. Sear the flesh for 4 to 5 minutes or until a crust is formed. Turn the fish over and cook an additional 4 to 5 minutes or until the flesh is opaque but still moist. Keep fish warm in a low-temperature oven.
To Serve: Place spicy eggplant in the center of a plate and place sturgeon on top of eggplant.
Advance Preparation: The eggplant may be prepared a day in advance and reheated prior to serving. Add a touch of vegetable stock or water to the pan while reheating.
Substitutions and Options: Steamed rice or couscous makes a fantastic accompaniment. Firm vegetables, such as broccoli or cauliflower will work in tandem or in place of the eggplant.
Wine Notes: A dry Gewürztraminer or a Grüner Veltliner with hints of orange and spice will hold up to the spicy heat of the eggplant and the richness of the fish.
Recommended: Two relatively inexpensive but highly expressive wines are Covey Run, Gewürztraminer, Washington ($10) and Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards, Grüner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley, Oregon ($22).
Makes 4 entrée servings
Adapted from The Sustainable Kitchen - Passionate Cooking Inspired by Farms Forests and Oceans by Stuart Stein.
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